Flow of hot water into the heat exchange unit is controlled by the heater tap inside the car. My plan was to retain the original bumper, keep the factory look with the lower spoiler and the fog lamps. Mounting the solenoids was much more difficult. These compressors make a bit of racket so the compressor was rubber mounted to the plate, and the plate also rubber mounted to the floor of the car to cut out vibrations. Try that on a car with electronic climate control without a 'true' heater tap. . The fact is the wheel is centered on the bumper but the chassis is of the P38 isn't perfect.
Plan was to fit a set of off road tyres to the ugly 4. Turn the heater on hotter, then the tap is restricted and less hot water flows out the other end and back into the block, hence the shower gets colder. My friend Jean-Marie who built a custom rear bumper found the same sort of problem. Much better than being in the rear. So here's what I had to fabricate.
This gave me plenty of accessory power in the rear of the car. The compressor gets it's power from the large battery via a 20amp circuit breaker. The cords on these are never long enough, and I like my passenger to control the winch sometimes, whilst I'm concentrating on steering. I plumbed this into the radiator water system so had good hot water flow, but no control over temperature. Car on stands, front all off. The hose to the shower rose simply screw on here, then hit the pump switch when ready and wash away.
Some of these are quite large and I had to ensure this was able to fit properly, or filling the car with fuel could become a lengthy issue. I fabricated another steel support plate and fixed this in place. Here is our list of gear to transfer if possible. See you in the bush. . A suitable place was behind the drivers headlamp where they would be further shielded by the battery cover. Sufficient slack in the cables has been left for just this purpose.
Here's where I ran into trouble. Be relocating it slightly to one side I fabricated a steel batter tray and fitted it alongside the tank. Just the way I like things! Dual battery start all hidden, diff locks all hidden. The shower works from a large pump which draws water through a hose, into a filter then through the heat exchanger. Using this tap I could control the amount of water that went through the heat exchanger, and how much went through the bypass pipe.
At the time there was no company in Australia that made a bull bar for the Rangie, except the factory 'brush' bar which could not accommodate a winch. These need to be clean and dry and also require servicing as good contacts supply strong current which is exactly what a winch needs. Turn the heater colder, more water flows, so the shower gets hotter. A bit tricky to run the air line to the front diff to ensure good protection. First step was to decide what to do with the new car. Being a non smoker, I had no need for an ash tray so that seemed the most obvious place.
. The results were really good and the look is factory finish. One of the first issues was where to mount the switches for the diff locks and the air compressor. Defender's and Disco's are still legal. Once a plan of attack was formulated, we cleared the garage and bought her in for a closer look.
Another sheet metal job, this time in ally and here's the solenoids mounted up, and then fitted into the designated spot. I like my cars to look like factory, so where do you hide the big ugly black box where the winch solenoids are fitted? I could have fabricated a new front bar, but as a private individual you can run into real issues by compromising factory safety systems. What should have been a simple task turned out to be seriously complex. It was my concession to the Mrs to transfer this over. The fuel cap holder on the door provided the relief. The final stage of the initial rebuild was to fit the winch.